Eat Out To Help Out Series: Part 7 - The Oyster & Fish House

Often when eating out there are trade-offs.

A great view can bring you compromised, complacent, overpriced food. While a back-street tiny bistro in a hidden spot can give you one of the best dining experiences ever (Osteria Alle Testiere in Venice, I’m looking at you).

Very rarely do you get the two co-existing in a harmony that makes you feel that you’ve stumbled on perfection.

But I’m here to tell you I’ve cracked it. And I give you Mark Hix’s Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis, Dorset.

Let’s start with the view. It’s A-M-A-Z-I-N-G.

Full length windows give you an unrivalled view across the bay, taking in the sea-swept curve of the Cobb, the sandy beach below and over the delicate ammonite curled lampposts towards magnificent Golden Cap in the distance. It’s utterly gorgeous.

But, bringing the focus to the interiors, you’re also ensconced in a truly beautiful space. It’s a celebration of timber with chunky wooden beams, golden wooden floorboards mirrored in the ceiling panelling, and classic wooden tables combining to create an air of cosy cabin chic.

There’s an outdoor decking area with tall stools giving the best views in the place. But we were seated inside with a cracking outlook of our own.

The menu is mouthwatering, so much so, we went off-piste to create a tapas selection of snacks, starters and sides rather than committing to just one main each. It was a terrific idea - hats off to my fella.

While I sipped a chilled glass of pale pink rose, L’Autentique (£5.80, 175ml), nothing short of seven dishes were being rustled up for us.

Starting from the top, the pretty little smoked salmon slider snack (£6.75) was wonderfully fresh with a good zing of horseradish and was served with cool, crisp iceberg lettuce in a light white roll. It made for a great pre-starter.

The second snack of four salty sage and anchovy fritters (£4.75) was beautifully hot and crispy. It was unlike anything I’ve tasted before and the herby sage was the perfect foil to the punchy fish.

But it was the starters that really raised the bar. The sesame seed dusted Korean fried monkfish cheeks (£12.50) were sensational. The Asian flavour gave a nice contrast to the other dishes. It was beautifully sweet and sticky and we would happily have had one plate each rather than sharing.

Moving on to the next dish of delight, a plate of West Country smoked fish (£15.50) was outstanding. We enjoyed a plump piece of pink salmon on thickly buttered rye bread, a thin slice of mackerel on a bed of pickled cucumber infused with dill and a rectangle of haddock resting delicately on buttered potatoes scattered with caraway seeds. The combination of flavours and textures was terrific.

Vibrant green whipped broad beans (£8) were served with lightly grilled flatbread. The beans were nicely fresh and cooling and certainly made a nice dip for the fritters but they did perhaps need an extra injection of flavour. I’d suggest mint.

Sides of hot, crunchy french fries (£3.95) and Isle of Wight heritage tomato and basil salad (£3.95) completed and enhanced an outstanding mix of flavours that left us grinning in delight.

There was no way we were going to skip dessert with food this good.

And we weren’t disappointed. Matt’s Eton mess with strawberries (£7.50) was fresh, creamy and perfectly sweet and sticky. The mix of cream and meringue was well proportioned with fragrant strawberries scattered amongst strawberry sauce. Being the political genius that he is, we chuckled sadly as he joked it’s the one Eton mess he’s in favour of. We’ll park the politics there….

My Peruvian gold chocolate mousse (£8) was every bit as rich and indulgent as it sounds. Dusted with shards of crisp dark chocolate, the thick, creamy mousse was heavenly.

It was actually rather sad to leave, but now it’s on our radar, this beauty will become our Lyme Regis regular.

For more information visit www.theoysterandfishhouse.co.uk